May 20th, 2026
[I realize that my featured image may upset both the Irish and the English. It is a picture from Greystones, Ireland and not Padstow, UK but I will leave it where it is. I am in Padstow. St. Crispins Cell is in Greystones Ireland near medieval Rathdown]
My trip South started on Monday, May 12th after spending time in Largs (Scotland) for one last repair to my gelcoat with thanks to 360 Boat Services. As soon as it had dried enough, I was underway and enroute to Greystones Ireland. I did take three days to get there, and the water conditions were mostly good.
I went to Greystones to renew my acquaintance with Owen and Paula whom I met last year. While they were totally engaged in their activities, I did spend some time catching up and had dinner with Owen and his daughter Jemima.
There are a lot of things to see in Ireland, but there was no car driving for me this time. I did take a walk locally and looked for Rathdown Castle (it can’t be seen) and St. Crispins Cell. There isn’t a lot to see in these local monuments, but the walk was nice and I am thrilled that I am close to this much history. I wish I could focus my life on learning about each of these things, alas there is too much to know and not enough time.
The weather was appealing for a move to Milford Haven in Wales. Currents and timing meant that I didn’t make it until late at night on the 16th, and was hoping to stay in Milford Haven, however the marinas in the area were full as people sought to avoid the coming weather. I decided to push on to Padstow.
Ideas are great things, but they don’t always work out. Starting out later than expected, I was pushing rough seas and a rising tide (current against me), and realized I wasn’t going to make it to Padstow in time to make it through their tidal gate. Between Milford Haven and Padstow there is only one other place to stop (from what I can see), and that is Lundy Island. So I turned to the East and headed to Lundy Island.
During this, much shorter, voyage I was being hit broadside by six foot seas and was getting absolutely slammed. The boat was rolling uncomfortably for about six hours and I have a few new dents in woodwork from unsecured items being tossed across the boat. Still, as usual, Home Free is designed for just such adventures and it was all good once I was tucked in behind Lundy Island. It was actually peaceful behind Lundy Island and if I wasn’t constrained by time, I might have stayed there until Thursday when there is another break in the weather.
Because cycling is my focus right now, I didn’t stay. Instead, I pushed on (Monday, May 18th) to Padstow, this time taking advantage of the current. I have never stayed in a marina that is essentially dug out of a tidal flat before. I was left with a dilemma in choosing this path. First of all, the weather for this passage was terrible. Secondly, if I catch the dropping tide on the way South, by the time I arrive in Padstow, the harbour will be drained by the tide and I have to sit outside to wait for the rising tide.
If I choose to head south while the tide is rising I have to push against the current (similar waves) and it will take 20% longer, but I will arrive in time to go straight up the river and not have to sit in choppy waters.
I chose to come south with the tide and wait for the tide to rise again. The boat was knoced about by wind and waves, but this time I had more large items stored. Because the current was pushing me I was tossed around for ‘less’ time than the other options and I arrived just North of Padstow with three hours to spare. By the time I was heading in the seas had calmed a bit so perhaps departing later would have been the better choice, but it all worked out.
Going into Padstow you go up what is, I think, called the River Camel and to get into the river you have to cross a bar of sand. It’s called the Doom Bar. Ominous. Sailing instructions say not to cross it outside of three hours either side of high tide and so I waited. I crossed Doom Bar at three hours before high tide, but then I was early for the dropping of the gate (I will get a picture of that later) which holds the water in the harbour, so I had to anchor for another 45 minutes just outside of town.
Finally around 5pm I was able to get into the harbour and tie up. Where I am now, just waiting for the weather to pass.
I have been on just one bike ride so far and the roads were quiet, the few drivers I met were patient while I was blocking them on these narrow English roads and the weather was relatively warm. I intend to stay here until Friday or even Saturday to wait for calm seas, and I will ride more.
This one ride though took me (quite randomly) to St. Breock Downs Monolith. This was important to someone forty or fifty centuries ago, but no one really knows why these exist. It is coincidental to me because I have been filling my time by watching Outlander (all eight seasons) over the past couple of weeks. If you’re not familiar, the characters can travel through history by touching the stones in a fictional stone circle. Yes I touched the stone. There are some lottery numbers I would like to take back in time. (Also, did anyone else read that book, Twice, on the reading list?)
On to boat projects and cycling and enjoying the English countryside. . .